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Home Workshop > General Area > General > Bandsaw Blades

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Bandsaw Blades

Bandsaw Blades

I finally managed to capture a Startrite 352 after very much ado - not cheap but in VGC and I'm indebted to all those who offered advice.

Next question might seem silly, I'm well used to selecting TPi for a Hacksaw and just blindly accept what I'm given for a Chop / Circular Saw to some degree, but I know little if anything of Bandsaw Blades.

I cut quite a lot of hard Brass strip mostly up to 1/4" thick and sometimes up to 1/2" and the odd bit of Steel, but the whole idea of this Saw is to use it to profile cut Timber, ply etc. from 1/8" to 4". Looking at the market I'm guessing 14 TPi is aimed at the Metal cutting and lower numbers for fine or coarse Timber cutting. Am I on the right track, or can someone put me right and perhaps recommend suppliers of the Blades?

TIA

Steve

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Steve Sparrow
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Re: Bandsaw Blades

Hi Steve,

There are two things to consider; blade width which determines both the minimum radius that can be turned and the overall stiffness and TPI, generally you want a minimum of two teeth in the work at any time. There is some choice on tooth profile too.this can help with clearing the 'scarf,  I can thoroughly recommend Tuffsaws for both metal and wood blades and you will get good  advice too. If you really want to understand wood cutting The Bandsaw book by Mark Duginske is all I have ever needed.

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Anthony Ray
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Re: Bandsaw Blades

Used a  Startrite 352  at a School for about 5 years on a daily basis, we sawed everything with it from  upholstery foam (very scary) to hardwood very occasionally aluminium but blade speed was a bit quick for that.  We always used 16 tpi blades 1/2 wide .  It did struggle on thick timber but that was only  sawn occasionally. You can of course have a few blades different widths  and tpi but changing them by job gets a bit tedious, especially so if you have all the educational guards fitted.  Never tried cutting brass, do you have a 2 speed machime  if  so I'd slow it down for cutting brass, the work will get quite warm in any case. At home on my Kity I used to use 3  or 4  tpi skip tooth primarily for wood cutting  but that was when I was using a lot of oak, now I tend to use 8-12 tpi and use them for everything.   Do make sure your rear and side blade guides are smooth, I used to flatten them on a sharpedge  grinder  occasionally.  Best if you can find a carbide tipped rear guides, I did make some from silver steel  hardened but not tempered they lasted quite well. Although the construction of the saw doesn't look that heavy you wont break it,  I always thought the weak point was the table trunnion. 
I agree Tuffsaws are good.
Ashley

Ashley (Remap Volunteer look us up  www.remap.org.uk  The best volunteering opportunity for practical people)

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Ashley Slater
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Re: Bandsaw Blades

Thank you Anthony and Ashley for giving me a good grounding. Now I recall the thinking on the number of teeth actually contacting the thickness of the workpiece, it all makes sense again.

Ashley I think it was your good self who recommended the 2 speed Startrite 352 and after learning quite a lot about various makes and types, and I came to the same conclusion. The machine is 2 speed and being 3ph I might hook it up to a VFD as I can get torque and speed variation using the 2 speeds wisely. All I have to do now is to wait for it to arrive - a kid waiting for a new toy!

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Re: Bandsaw Blades

I think the 352 has a blade plate on the reverse of the top half of the saw, this would be the starting point , as you become more familiar with it and the material you might be able to adjust the blades for your needs.Great saw by the way.

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Re: Bandsaw Blades

Thanks Glen, I'll write up my experiences when I've had it running for a few weeks.

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